Using thermal imaging technology, it’s easy to see that the close proximity of the drapery is a fire safety hazard. (Photo: Hugh Cairns)

Electric baseboard heat is easy to control and requires little maintenance in order to provide clean, quiet, comfortable and draft-free heat. Electric baseboard heaters offer precision temperature control and heat distribution while being 100% energy efficient.

How electric baseboards work

Electric baseboard heaters are a type of electric resistor which works by converting electrical energy into heat, much the same way that electric stoves or ovens do. A thermostat is used to control the flow of electricity to a heating element located inside a long protective pipe inside the heater case. When the thermostat is set high enough, the heater is turned on, electricity flows through element causing it to heat up. The pipe has hundreds of metal fins attached to it in order to help disburse the heat generated by the element. Cold air is pulled through the bottom of the heater case where it is heated as it escapes through the top of the case. This creates a vacuum, pulling cool air towards the baseboard heater. This type of air flow is called convection current. Once the convection current is flowing, it spreads heat to the entire room.

Initial Cost

Electric baseboard installation comprises of installing the units at floor level to a wall with connection to the home’s electrical system. The baseboards themselves usually cost less than $100 each. In newly constructed structures, baseboard heating typically has the lowest initial cost compared to other systems, but can be expected to have higher operating cost. In comparison, central forced air residential heating systems are costly to install and can easily run $5000 or more for a high efficiency forced air furnace. In addition, forced air systems require distribution ductwork and exterior ventilation components.

How to calculate for electric baseboard heat requirements

Each room will need approximately 8 watts of electric baseboard heat per square foot of the room being heated. Rooms that are extra-large or poorly insulated may need additional capacity.  To heat a large room and increase your comfort, it is recommended to install multiple smaller units instead of a large one. With proper placement, this practice creates better convection air currents. For example, install two 1000 watt units rather than a single 2000 watt unit.

1. Measure and multiply the width and length of the room to determine its square footage.
2. Next, multiply the square footage of the room by 8. The result is the amount of wattage that you will need for the room.
3. Multiply the wattage by 3.1421 to determine the BTU rate per hour.
4. Shop for a baseboard heaters that match the total wattage and BTU rate for each room.

Electric baseboard placement

For best results, install the baseboard heater under a window, along an outside wall, or as close as possible to an outside door. They can also be placed in hard to heat areas and places where freezing can be problematic such as garages and crawlspaces

• The electric baseboard heater may be placed directly on the floor and mounted to the wall
• Keep hanging objects at least 12” away from the heater
• The seam at the junction of the wall and floor behind the heater should be caulked to prevent dust from being drawn into the room. The heater should be set flush against the surface of the wall
• Baseboard heaters may sit directly on any floor surface, including carpet, however do not allow carpet to block lower air intake

Note: Sole use of electric baseboard heating in log homes is not recommended because they are not efficient with log wall structures. Log homes often have large areas and cathedral ceilings which are best served by means other than electric baseboard heat.

Initial operation

• The heater must be properly installed before it is used
• Switch the power on at the electrical panel board
• Upon initial start-up, the heater may emit a burning odor. This is not dangerous, and is due to a protective lubricant used during the manufacturing process. It typically dissipates within several hours

Electric baseboard maintenance

Electric baseboard heaters are virtually maintenance-free. However, a certain amount of lint and dust will accumulate inside the unit and should be periodically cleaned. Follow these suggestions to maintain their efficiency before each heating season:

• Test all units to make sure they are working
• Ensure heaters are not physically damaged. Damaged units should be replaced.
• Baseboard covers are required to assure proper heating of room air by convection
• Check that heaters are properly secured and not loose
• Vacuum dust collected inside and under the baseboard heaters. Use a soft bristle attachment that doesn’t have metal parts to clean the heater fins.
• Move objects and furniture away to allow for better air circulation.

Ensure curtains and blinds do not drape over the electric baseboards

If you ever have a problem with a baseboard unit that concerns you, call a professional electrician.

Painting electric baseboards

Painting of electric baseboards is not necessary unless you want them to match room decor. Make sure you visit your local paint expert before you embark on this endeavor as heater covers are made of metal and are subjected to intense heat and temperature fluctuations. To achieve a good looking paint job it may be necessary to hire a professional with the correct equipment and expertise. In any event, make sure that the casework is painted and not the heating and electrical components.

Electric baseboard covers

To bring out the best in your home consider decorative baseboard covers. Many are designed with classic architectural details that maintain proper convection airflow. In addition to their eye appeal, some models offer superior child protection using perforated metal so that small fingers and flammable toys are prevented from touching the element.

Electric baseboard efficiency

If you want to keep your energy bills in check it pays to make sure you are using your baseboard heaters properly and that they are working efficiently.

Just like forced air heating, the key to efficient baseboard heating is unobstructed airflow - anything blocking the flow of air in and around the heater will decrease its efficiency. Make sure there is ample space around the unit to create convection. The biggest culprit for reduced airflow is poorly placed furniture such as beds and couches. Drapery can be problematic too. Besides weakened efficiency, drapes that are in close proximity to the heater can result in a fire safety hazard.

In my books, baseboard heating is most effective when the temperature setting is set at comfortable or near comfortable levels. Resist the temptation to crank up the thermostat higher than the temperature actually desired. Doing so only increases your energy bill, especially if you forget to turn the thermostat back down. The room you are wanting to heat will warm up at the same rate either to the desired temperature or the elevated one.

Hugh Cairns baseboard efficiency tip - Turning the thermostat down too far will only cause heat sources in adjacent spaces to work harder to heat the overall structure. Also, setting the temperature too low will likely cause excessive recovery times. Cold rooms have cold contents, heating them up with convection air can be a lengthy process.

Setting the temperature – Electric baseboard thermostats

Most electric baseboard applications have manual dial thermostats, however programmable thermostats are available.

Manual thermostats have to be physically re-set every time you want to change the temperature in a room, making it easy to forget to re-set them. Considering a small home has 10 thermostats, it’s not easy to juggle them to suit your best interests.

Hugh Cairns baseboard heating tip - Using programmable electric baseboard thermostats will assist you in balancing the heating needs of your home. Stabilizing the heat distribution will make the transition from room to room more consistent and comfortable. You may need patience; it can take several days of adjustments to balance the system.

Programmable thermostats offer cost effective features like setback settings and overrides. When using programmable thermostats you can customize the zone to match your needs. If there is a time during the day when the room or the home is unoccupied an extended periods of time, it makes sense to adjust the temperature during those periods. Programmable thermostats are more precise than manual thermostats and do a better job of keeping room temperature constant. By avoiding ups and downs in temperatures, and enjoying comfortable temperatures while the room is in use, you will feel more comfortable and you’ll save some energy.

Should I replace old electric baseboards?

The best reason to upgrade your old electric baseboards to new ones is improvements in safety. New models include an oversized high temperature limit switch that shuts the heater off when excessive operating temperatures are detected. The heating elements in newer models are improved, as well, improvements in case construction has increased convection patterns to direct heat away from walls. However, these changes won’t alter the fact that new or old electric heat baseboard heat is 100% efficient. If the electric elements are working, there would most likely be no benefit to replacing them.

Hugh Cairns’ baseboard replacement tip - Baseboard heaters convert 100 percent of their supplied electricity into heat. We can't get better efficiency than that, but we can improve how the heat is used.

Electric baseboards with corroded, overheated connections or burnt-out elements should be replaced. Since the units primarily in any given home are of the same age, you should formulate a plan for a wholesale change-out or an upgrade to a ductless heat pump system. There really isn’t much to wear out with the old baseboard heating systems. There aren’t any moving parts.

You may decide to change them for aesthetic reasons. New electric baseboard heaters are much more attractive. There are several decorative upgrade kits available for refitting older units.

Removing old baseboard heaters

When you uninstall an electric baseboard it is mandatory to de-energize the electrical service and properly terminate each end of the branch wire at the panel and the heater. If you are not comfortable or knowledgeable to conduct this operation, it is time to step aside and call in a professional electrician to finish the job to code.

Replacing old electric baseboards with ductless heat pumps

The hot new thing in home heating is called the "ductless heat pump".  Replacing baseboard electric heaters with a ductless heat pump can result in savings of 25 to 50 percent on the cost to heat. In addition they can be used as air conditioners in the summer. Payback on a system is estimated as ten years. As the name suggests, there's no ductwork involved.  That saves money on installation. 

Hugh Cairns’ conversion to ductless heat pump tip - Since ductless heat pumps can be added to one or several rooms at a time, it's a system an owner can shift to gradually.

(Photo: Hugh Cairns)

Ductless heat pumps have two main parts. The indoor fan unit mounts on the inside of an exterior wall and resembles an air conditioner. Refrigerant lines run through to the outside and connect to a box-siz ed compressor at grade level. Standard equipment in Asia and Europe, the system is catching on in the North American market.

Electric baseboard heaters vs. Electric fireplaces

Baseboard heaters and electric fireplaces can provide zoned heating room by room.

When they first arrived on the market, electric fireplaces looked pretty much unrealistic. Recently improvements in aesthetics have made them appear realistic and decorative. Some models are wall features and include remote controls.

For a small home, there are many advantages to using either of these; however, you would have to be smart about using them. Low in cost, usually under $100, baseboard heaters are a less expensive alternative as opposed to electric fireplaces that run anywhere from $200-1000. With either product it is important to size them properly for the room that they are to be used in. 

 

Back in the day before cellulose and glass fibre insulation products were available, sawdust and wood shavings were commonly used to insulate homes. Before that, most builders and home owners didn’t insulate attics or walls at all, making homes with sawdust insulation better than average.

If you compare the R-value of sawdust and wood chips to our modern insulation products, the insulation value is poor. Often the depth of the wood shaving insulation is insufficient and it has settled, leaving it with little or no thermal benefits.

Attics can get really hot during the summer months reaching as much as 150 degrees. On hot days, an attic with little insulation results in the top floor ceilings becoming like heat exchangers. With insufficient insulation (and proper ventilation) your attic will get nice and toasty. That heat will, in turn, radiate down into your home, countering much of your cooling efforts and costing you money.

Considering that attic insulation is relatively inexpensive, there’s little money to lose and lots to be gained from insulating your attic. You will benefit greatly with increased comfort, particularly in the summer months.

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To improve the comfort of the home pictured above, one solution is to re-insulate the entire attic cavity with blown in fibreglass insulation and confirm good ventilation practices. Some people may be tempted to leave the wood chips and insulate over the top of them but that can result in future complications. Insulation contractors have industrial sized vacuums to remove the old shavings.

Next, draft proof around all ceiling penetrations. If you are adding recessed ceiling mounted light fixtures make sure that they are fire-protected, CSA-approved fixtures. Now you’re ready for some new insulation.

Being a home owner means you pay for electricity or gas bills or even both. Many homeowners wish that they can reduce them. The fact is there is a price to pay for a comfortable home, but there are some things that you can do to lower your energy consumption. There is no doubt that adequate insulation will make your home feel more comfortable.

Insulating your ceilings and walls decreases heat flow transferred through the structure. This results in lower winter energy consumption for heating, and less energy consumption for cooling in the summer.

Oddly enough, when homeowners think of insulation, they often think of the importance of it in the winter. But, insulation is just as important for your comfort in the summer because it slows the transfer of summer heat entering the home and reduces demand on your air-conditioning system.

Main benefits of good attic insulation:

    It results in drastically lower energy bills

The average homeowner must allocate nearly half of their home energy budget for heating and cooling costs, it’s imperative that their home be sufficiently insulated from the outdoors.

    Adding attic insulation will help your home resist such fluctuation in temperature

A properly insulated attic also results in an increase in comfort in your home. With the right amount of insulation, your home will be warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer.

    A properly insulated attic will reduce the need for continuous heating or cooling during cold and hot months

A significant and long-lasting benefit of attic insulation is that it results in less energy use in a home.

     Add Long-Term Value to your home

Many of us tend to think ahead and consider the impact of our present actions on the future. Adding attic insulation to your home – particularly for an older home that lacks sufficient insulation – can significantly increase the home’s value.

While wonderful to look at in their young full yellow regalia, the flowers of dandelions soon turn old and grey then turn to seed, perfect for picking and puckering ones lips up to and blowing them towards freedom, or right into the neighbors' yards. Photo: Contributed - (Photo: Hugh Cairns)

Q. Are dandelions a pesky weed? 

A. Not to everyone. 

While many people see dandelions as a pesky weed, herbalists consider them valuable and use them in food and medicine. They're also an excellent source of iron, vitamin A, potassium and vitamin C. Dandelion leaves are used to add flavor to salads, sandwiches, and teas. The roots are used in some coffee substitutes, and the flowers are used to make wines. 

Traditionally, dandelion roots and leaves were used to treat liver problems. First Nations boiled dandelion in water and drank it to treat kidney disease, swelling, skin problems, heartburn, and upset stomach. In traditional Chinese medicine, dandelion has been used to treat stomach problems, appendicitis, and breast problems such as inflammation or lack of milk flow. In Europe, it was used in remedies for fever, boils, eye problems, diabetes, and diarrhea.

In Canada, the plant's root is registered as a drug. Dandelion treats conditions such as anemia, kidney disease, jaundice, arthritis, respiratory infections and gallstones. The plant's milky juices, which contain latex, help get rid of warts and can repel mosquitoes. Dandelions are also known to reduce obesity. In scientific studies, rats and humans injected with dandelion lost up to 30 per cent of their body weight. But the plant's most popularly known medicinal use is as a diuretic. When eaten, dandelions can be surprisingly good for you. Half a cup of leaves has more calcium than a glass of milk. 

In my neighborhood they are commonly used to decorate the lawn. In fact, it is seemingly possible that when dandelions take over the planet, the epicentre may very well be right here at home. It seems that dandelions are developing earlier every year. While wonderful to look at in their young full yellow regalia, the flowers of dandelions soon turn old and grey then turn to seed, perfect for picking and puckering ones lips up to and blowing them towards freedom, or right into the neighbors yards.

It’s hard to believe that years of consistent pounding with herbicides and endless manual eradication techniques, dandelions might just very well end up being very good friends of ours. Now I just have to convince my neighbors.

Hugh Cairns is a regular columnist on Castanet.net—the Okanagan’s best news source. Hugh answers his readerships questions with informative and seasoned advice weekly in his column About the House.

De-icing chemicals aggravate spalling concrete by allowing more water to migrate into the concrete increasing the size and depth of the spalling failures when a freeze/thaw cycle occurs. That's why spalling problems are often associated with vehicle storage.(Photo: Hugh Cairns)

All about – Concrete driveway spalling

Spalling on concrete driveways is easy to spot once it is underway. Rough, pitted or flaky areas in the driveway indicate spalling. Concrete driveway spalling is usually a result of installation, environmental and mechanical factors. Most cases start off as cosmetic in nature affecting the surface of the concrete driveway only. Spalling can penetrate much deeper damaging rebar, for this reason it is important to get on it and nip it in the bud.

It stands to reason that the best time to address concrete spalling is before it starts. Using the correct concrete mixture and proper curing techniques is a must. There are a host of sealants available that prevent spalling that can be applied upfront. Sealants are available that are decorative in nature.

Concrete flaking and scaling can be caused during the freeze thaw process in the winter. Moisture in the concrete can freeze and cause the material to expand which creates pressure. Repetition of this cycle can cause the surface to scale or flake. Applying de-icing products on concrete can accelerate the spalling by introducing more moisture into it. Your vehicle can bring home de-icing compounds and deposit them right on your driveway with you thinking about it. That's why spalling problems are often associated with vehicle storage.

Spalling conditions can be caused during the driveway installation. In this case the top layer of concrete may have cured faster than the material below it causing moisture to be trapped. This causes a weak layer between the surface and the stronger slab below. 

If you notice concrete spalling it’s best to act quickly and address it. The longer you leave the surface to deteriorate the higher the risk of more serious damage. Most of us aren’t versed in repairing concrete spalling. In this case I recommend that you bring in the right pro, with the right experience and the right tools. In situations like this, by the time you figure out and gather all the tools and materials the project would most likely be finished by a pro.

The good news is the vast majority of homeowners won’t have to deal with concrete spalling. All home maintenance starts with prevention including concrete driveway spalling.

Repair concrete driveway spalling – The Pro method

Here’s the deal. This is one of these projects that most people only do once. The materials can be expensive and you won’t likely save on them by purchasing them yourself. Your Pro may qualify for a wholesale discount. Surface work generally isn’t fun, especially when you throw in a time limit. Your local Pro is versed in the ins-and-outs of working with the product well before he approaches your job.

My advise? Go Pro.

Repair concrete driveway spalling – DIY method

For the purposes of this article I’m going to brief you on the general process to give you an idea of what you are up against. Follow the manufacturer's instructions thoroughly.

If you are going to repair your spalling driveway yourself do some product research. Using the correct products will greatly increase your fortunes of a successful repair. Doing the work yourself means that you will be guaranteeing your own work so to speak. So start off right. Make sure that the product you use has good documentation. If it doesn’t, don’t use it.

The overlay of choice should allow for movement of moisture vapour through the concrete as well as protect from the freeze/thaw cycle through air entrapment. Sound complicated? Head down to your local concrete accessory store and get the lowdown on products that are successful in your area. In Kamloops and Kelowna, see the Pros’ at National Concrete Accessories. They’ll help you with an overlay that goes down thick and cover up the defects.

As in all surface jobs preparation is the key to success. Start by removing all unsound concrete materials. Get your hands on a good power washer and degrease the area. Repair any areas with mortar repair that the overlay won’t handle. If you don’t want cracks telegraphing through your new finish repair them too, but you’re going to have to leave the contraction joints alone. If you do manage to cover a contraction joint mark it and then cut down to the original depth pattern.

For the next part of the repair you’re going to have to be on the ball. Most polymer overlays set in 20 minutes. So if you aren’t prepared you could have a mess on your hands. Do the work in the morning when it’s cooler. Get all your tools ready and make sure the entire surface is clear of storage. Wet the entire driveway to saturate it. Apply a bonding agent and brush it on to the affected area, before it dries apply the overlay. 

Home inspectors, from time-to-time, are faced with homes that are vacant and where some of the services are turned off. In some cases, the water to the home is shutoff in an effort to protect the home from water damage while it is unsupervised. In other cases, the water is shutoff for specific reasons, such as incidental or chronic failure. Not knowing specifically why the water was shutoff in the first place leads to pure speculation as to the reasoning.

When somebody asks an inspector to turn the water on in order to conduct a home inspection for others, they are really asking the inspector to prove if the system is stable, a responsibility that is outside of the inspection. The process of a home inspection begins after the system has been stabilized. If a home has had its water shutoff due to occupancy reasons, there are no guarantees that the system has become unstable during this time, its pipes could have frozen and failed, or the system could have been damaged by mechanical or other means.

Shutting off the water to a home or turning it back on can result in complications at the main water shutoff valve, no matter who operates it. The water pressure at a home’s main valve is much, much higher than what is used for interior domestic use. As the water services passes into the home, the pressure is reduced for use at appliances and faucets. Because the main water valve is used so rarely, the valve mechanism can seize up or fail due to aging or use. The operator of main shutoff valves should have a plan to respond to a valve failure in the event that one occurs. Replacing or repairing main shutoff valves usually involves locating the curb stop at the street with specialized tooling.

Some reasons to shutoff the home’s water supply that may not be evident or unknown to the inspector:

• Faulty combustion or electrical connections at water heaters
• Other gas or electrical service complications
• The presence of leaking fixtures, faucets, appliances
• Leaking pipes
• Leaking sprinkler systems
• The vacationing of a water heater
• Disconnection by the service provider

Home inspectors can be held liable for damages caused by their actions to a home and adjacent properties. Turning on a water system with problems can cause serious damage to a single home, even more so in multi-unit dwellings. Because of the inherent risks of damaging a home, an international recognized protocol has been developed for home inspectors when it comes to testing any non-operational system or component.

Canada’s largest and most recognized organization of home inspectors, The Canadian Association of Home and Property Inspectors regulates that their members are not required to operate:

1. any system or component which is shut down or otherwise inoperable
2. any system or component which does not respond to normal operating controls
3. shut-off valves

It makes sense that an inspector shouldn’t assume the responsibility to pressurize a water supply system to verify that leaks and damaging conditions aren’t present.

When the seller of a home turns on the water, and pressurizes the system prior to an inspection of their home, it gives everyone involved in the sale and purchase of a home the peace of mind that the system is operational. In addition, it enables the home inspector to fulfill their contractual obligations to their client, the buyer. The inspector is specifically required to inspect interior water supply and distribution systems including all fixtures and faucets for their client.

When an inspector is placed in the unenviable position of being asked to turn the water service on in a home, it puts them directly in a situation to be responsible for an action that may be hazardous to the inspector or other persons, or for damage the property its systems or components. When an inspector turns the water on, the action puts the home inspector in legally liable position for any and all claims that occur as a result of his action.

To avoid all complications and confusion, prior to a home inspection, the water supply to the home should be turned on and proven by the seller.

I’ve been conducting home inspections in Kelowna, Vernon and Penticton for years now. Quite often I’m asked by my clients what my thoughts are on home inspections and home inspectors in general. Here’s some of my observations on home inspection, home inspectors, and how to find a good home inspector and how much home inspections cost.

Every home buyer deserves a quality home inspection and getting one when you buy is just plain smart. Expect your home inspector to provide you with hard evidence to reduce the risk of costly and unexpected surprises. A good home inspection is important to provide you with an unbiased assessment of the condition of a home and ultimately, a home inspection is meant to protect you, the homeowner.

If you are a first time buyer or if you have previously bought a house, you already know that buying a house is unlike buying anything else. Once you have made your purchase, usually no option or mechanism to exchange or return it.

Sure, the largest component about home inspections is defect recognition, but the way I see it, home inspections aren’t all about the bad things. The good things really matter and need to be verified too. Being able to confirm that the home is built right, that it is safe, warm and dry is very important to make sense of your investment. The more knowledge you have regarding the condition of a home, the better position you will be in during negotiations.

How to find a good home inspector

Most likely your quest to choose the right home inspector will be met with a host of names, with different backgrounds and levels of credentials. Making sure that your home passes the final test is as important as qualifying the inspector you hire. That’s going to be difficult because home inspections require a mixture of science, art and experience. Home inspectors need to be able to reconstruct conditions from the past and form opinions about what the future holds. They need to be diplomats, sleuths and most importantly, provide reliable credible advice.

My advice is to find your home inspector before you really need one. You shouldn’t put money down on a house and while you are at the altar, ask for someone to o.k. you marriage to it. Nor should you hire a home inspector that simply gives you a canned report, or a checklist describing a house. Hire an inspector that will give you an onsite consultation and answer your questions about the house to your satisfaction. Better yet, hire an inspector that you can inspect along with, who shares their insight and knowledge with you as the inspection progresses.

If I were in a position to hire a home inspector in B.C. or the rest of Canada, I’d make certain that my inspector of choice was a member of The Canadian Association of Home and Property Inspectors (CAHPI). Just like Mike Holmes recommends, I’d seek out an inspector that has trades experience. For me, the more experience the better. Just like any profession, the skills of a home inspector can be expected to improve with construction and inspection experience. I advise to seek out a generalist, an inspector that is versed in all aspects of residential construction. Having worked in construction in the 80's right through the '10's, I've seen construction techniques improve in four different decades, so you can see that I'd be partial to hiring a home inspector with al lot of experience.

I’m big on having the right tools and current technology for any construction job. I’d expect my home inspector to do the same. Make sure you know what kind of equipment your home inspector uses. A pen, paper and a clipboard just don’t cut it. Make sure your home inspection includes thermal imaging, moisture meters, electrical testers, binoculars, ladders and the best flashlights money can buy. Make sure your home inspector isn’t afraid of the hard-to-get-to places like crawlspaces and attics.

How much does a home inspection cost?

Many people see home inspections as an investment. The fact is, the money you invest on an inspection today will help you avoid costly repairs tomorrow. To me, that’s just plain smart.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Your home is a large investment and you need to protect that asset. Every dollar spent on your home inspection is money you’re investing back into your home.

Many inspectors have different ways of valuing their service. Some base their inspection fee on a combination of things, while others offer flat fees. Some home inspectors base their home inspection fee on the size, age and complexity of the home. I don’t know about you, but I don’t like being nickeled and dimed to death. Comparing fees alone is dangerous; comparing home inspectors along with their fees is shrewd. Fees are often identical or in the same ball park, but the level of service can vary greatly. Chances are you’ve chosen your home for its value; you should select your home inspector the same manner.

What to look for in a home inspection

Here in BC the home inspection industry is a licensed profession. As such, home inspectors must belong to a recognized industry association. The result is that members of The Canadian Association of Home and Property Inspectors of British Columbia (CAHPI BC) abide by a Standards of Practice that regulate what items that are required to be inspected in a home and how they are to be inspected and reported on. The Standards of Practice that CAHPI (BC) home inspectors abide by have been patriated from the American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI – North America’s largest home inspection association) by way of unanimous vote of the CAHPI (BC) membership.

CAHPI (BC) has worked very, very hard to ensure every home buyer in BC receives a competent and accurately conducted home inspection by its membership for over 20 years now. The Standards of Practice are the best the home inspection industry has to offer. They are consistent and proven coast to coast and across borders, and designed to give the best assessment of the condition of ahome as possible. 

Mobile home inspections are approached by home inspectors in a manner that diverges from traditional site-built housing inspections because mobile home structures are designed and constructed quite differently. When we build a traditional site based home, the construction is generally inspected by the authority of jurisdiction. Since mobile homes are factory built, most often in a uniform fashion at a remote location, they are built to standards approved by the Canadian Standards Association (CSA). Mobile homes have specific construction and design standards to assure their durability, quality and most importantly, safety. Mobile homes are constructed on a non-removable steel frame and transported building sites on wheels.

Since the 1972, mobile homes manufactured in Canada have been required to carry CSA certification. CSA certification is usually proven on older mobile homes as an important decal placed on the exterior cladding of the home. It’s important not to remove or deface the decal, without it, its value may be diminished. On newer homes the CSA sticker may be located at the electrical panel.

There are many advantages of purchasing a mobile home, many of which are easily explained by your realtor. Most people tend to be attracted to their attractive pricing and value. Lower monthly payments, insurance costs, and perhaps even faster equity build-up make them a smart buy. I find that they are generally reliable and uncomplicated resulting in economical maintenance, repairs and upgrades.

Mobile home inspections aren’t all about picking them apart, making sure that things are right is just as important. Should the mobile home inspection yield a problem, it can usually be resolved for much less expense than a traditional house. Knowing what problems are present, if any, will get you off to a great start.

Inspecting mobile home sites

Inspecting a mobile home begins with inspecting its site. Successful mobile home installations always begin with good site preparation and selection. Considerable planning for the installation for a mobile home as once they have been placed, they are seldom relocated.

Making sure the ground is stable will maintain the investment in the home. Since moisture is one of the largest enemies of any home, the understructure of mobile homes should be nice and dry. When moisture is present under a mobile home, a whole host of problems are likely to occur. All soil foundations must be properly graded.

Mobile home installation practices

Prior to installation all vegetation and organic material should be removed below where the home is to be located. Newer installations require that the pad be filled with gravel or a similar inorganic material above the surrounding finished grade. The slope of the grade should peak at the center of the mobile and slope to the outside of the home. A minimum slope of 2% is generally accepted. Sloping will prevent damaging water accumulation from under the structure.

Placing a plastic ground cover over the pad will assist in preventing moisture intrusion into the structure. The ground cover should extend at least 6 inches past the exterior perimeter of the home and be weighted down. Plastic ground covers help eliminate soil gas concerns.

If the home is to sit on a perimeter foundation wall, the foundation should conform to building code. When the home is supported by its longitudinal support on piers, it should be installed according to the manufacturer’s instructions and by observing specific anchorage and pier system arrangements governed by the local authority.

Clearances are important for access and ventilation. Usually the minimum acceptable clearance under the home is 24”. In the case of a sloped pad, minimum clearance between the bottom of the structure and grade level should be at least a 12”.

Where skirting is used, it should be designed to accommodate frost movement, be corrosion resistant or pressure treated, and its exterior finish be weather resistant. Make sure ventilation is installed in the skirting and that it appropriate access panels especially at sewer, water and power connections.

Quite often I see that the installations of older mobile homes don’t observe many of today’s mandated safe practices. Efforts to make existing homes conform to new standards will help safeguard the investment in the home.

The installation of the utility services of a mobile home is an important element. Make sure that requirements and regulations for utility hook-ups are met. The installation of the home’s ventilation systems is critical to the performance of the home. Appliances or clothes dryers should not be vented into the crawl space.

Mobile home inspections – electrical system

Mobile home inspections should prioritize safety concerns, starting with the electrical system. Used mobile homes may be offered for sale in British Columbia provided that they have a valid CSA approval mark and that the original wiring has not been altered without a permit. In the event the electrical wiring system has been altered without a permit, or there is no record of valid CSA approval, the mobile home must be re-inspected to satisfy the requirements of the BC Safety Authority and a new approval label applied to the home. Owners of mobile homes can certify their electrical systems at any time regardless of their CSA status.

If you need to certify using the BC Safety Authority process you will have to engage a licensed electrician to inspect and approve the entire electrical system. All of the receptacles and branch wiring circuits must be tested and properly bonded to ground for safety. If they aren’t, they must be otherwise protected to meet requirements for the safety of occupants. Any owner-modified and otherwise unsafe wiring must be brought up to current standards in order to gain certification.

Mobile home owners should observe the use of properly rated switches, bulbs and other electrical system components in their homes. Not using recommended or approved electrical components can result in safety hazards. Overloading electrical circuits, unsuitable convenience wiring or inadequate extension cords can lead to potential fires.

Speaking of fires, smoke and carbon monoxide alarms are critical for safety. The best exit is a fast exit. Make sure your alarms are in top notch working order. Remember, most alarms are good for up to 10 years, after that, they wear out and must be replaced.

Inspecting mobile home heating and cooling systems

The shear design nature of mobile homes results in maximizing the potential of their footprint. Mobile homes are designed to be self-contained and their heating and cooling systems are paired with their size. Mobile home furnaces are often installed in confined spaces and may result in contact with flammable materials. Special consideration must be made for clearances and an inspection should seek indications of exterior furnace failures. Clearances around interior vents should be observed for optimum efficiency and comfort.

Just like traditional homes, mobile homeowners can experience heating problems. Furnace heat exchangers should be evaluated by a HVAC technician, especially later in their service life. The potential for carbon monoxide leaks into the home should be eliminated. Regular filter maintenance is required for air filtration, to optimize the equipment’s efficiency and for safety. Of great importance is to evaluate the system’s flues and chimneys for proper operation and general condition.

Most mobile homes are cooled with wall mount or zone air conditioners. These units are regarded as personal appliances and are replaceable when the reach the end of their service lives. Mobile owners should pay specific attention to the condition of their cooling system. Older air conditioners that run constantly or have poor cooling performance are unsatisfactory. Observations of poor performance can be a result of a failing compressor or inadequate sizing. Remember that wall mount air conditioners require significant electrical power. Overloading a circuit can cause the breaker to trip or worse, a safety hazard.

More and more, mobile home owners are looking to ductless heat pumps for their indoor heating and cooling comfort. These units perform substantially like their traditional cousins and are ideally suited for mobile homes.

Mobile home inspection - plumbing and moisture

In the case of mobile homes in Canada, the Canadian Standards Association plays a large role in plumbing components. All plumbing system components should bear their approval. Where low quality tub and sink fixtures have been used, special attention should be used to look for cracks and leaks. Make sure that there are proper shutoffs have been installed at sinks and toilets.

Testing the waste distribution systems requires applying adequate flow at the fixtures for a significant period of time. Where water leaks, or where there is poor site drainage, water can mitigate from the understructure. Look for improperly installed moisture barriers and condensation drainage.

Mobile home inspection - structural and exterior issues

Most mobile homes have been engineered to be self-contained units that do not include to option of structural alterations or the installation of attachments without consequence. Avoid mounting of structural components to the exterior walls that can pull or push the structure. Additions like decks or stairs should be completely independent from the mobile home.

Insufficient sheathing beneath the siding and poorly installed skirting are problems to look for. Any penetration, whether it be through the roof, sides or underbelly of the home should be closely examined. Water leaks in the roof seams or covering, leaks at windows and doors can cause destructive deterioration and invite contamination and insect infestations. The under-wrap is particularly important for insulation purposes. It should be fitted properly and not hanging down.

Inspecting Mobile home additions

Renovations and additions to mobile homes should be conducted with proper permitting. Make sure that you contact your local building department prior to any additions or alterations to ensure you have the required permits.

Mobile homes are designed to be moved and as such don’t enjoy many of the permanent structural advantages that traditional homes have. Most mobile homes don’t have permanent stable foundations to tie into, nor do they accommodate or anticipate permanent additions in their design. Additional weight, pressure and support factors are not factored. 

Additions to mobile homes should be fashioned to be self-supporting and should have minimal contact. Sealing the gap between the units is acceptable. Factory built additions for mobile homes are available. They are constructed with portability in mind as well as standards for joining. Pre-constructed additions can be transported directly to the site for quick incorporation.

When adding an addition to a mobile home, make sure you consider the HVAC, plumbing and electrical needs of the new spacde.

Adding decks and porches to a mobile home

Decks are a great feature to enjoy the outdoors on. If you’re considering adding a deck to a mobile home approach it as a separate structure. This method will preserve the independent structural integrity of the mobile. The same strategy should be considered if you are considering adding a carport or steps.

Before you constructing any structural project, get in touch with your local building department for proper procedure and permitting.

Mobile home energy efficiency

There is a large energy efficiency line to be drawn between old and new mobile homes. This includes insulation and mechanical efficiencies.

Up until the mid-eighties most exterior walls of mobile homes were built form 2 x 4’s and insulated with R-12 fiberglass batt insulation. From the mid-eighties on, most exterior walls are 2 x 6 construction that have an R-20 value.

Ceiling insulation in older mobiles is minimal. Expect older homes to have a low R-value. Newer mobiles often have ceiling insulation of R-24 to R-34.

High air leakage in older mobile homes is common. After the early 70’s they are considerable tighter. Today’s mobile homes have fresh air venting incorporated into their design.

Forced air heating systems in older mobile homes delivered conditioned air to rooms but it wasn’t returned to the furnace by the same method. This resulted in uneven heating of the home especially when kitchen and bathroom exhaust fans were operated.

Draft proofing older mobile homes helps. Sealing exterior penetrations can help reduce air leakage significantly. Make sure that sufficient makeup ventilation is present to prevent back drafting of flue gases into the home when exhaust fans are operating.

On average, for older mobile homes, the largest improvements that can be made are:

• Draftproofing 37%
• Door and window replacement 12%
• Exterior wall insulation 18%
• Furnace upgrade 34%

Improving energy efficiency is best undertaken with a solid plan. I recommend engaging a professional energy advisor to assess the home and provide a step-by-step report.